By Patrick Oppmann, CNN
Santiago, Cuba (CNN) - Facing the stage where Pope Benedict XVI will deliver his first Mass in Cuba during his visit here this week is a giant neon billboard of a young and victorious Fidel Castro brandishing a rifle.
It would appear to be a poor omen for the pope’s visit, if not for the message printed beside the Cuban leader: “Rebels yesterday, hospitable today, always heroic.” It’s the slogan for Santiago de Cuba, the first stop on the pope’s three-day trip to the island nation.
The freshly erected sign offers insight into the changing, often hard to read, relationship between the Cuban government and the Catholic Church.
After decades of chilly relations between church and state here, including the near dismantling of Cuba’s Catholic Church in the 1960s, the Castro regime is rolling out the welcome mat for the pope’s visit, even if it is offering no apologies for its past actions.
CNN's Belief Blog – all the faith angles to the day's top stories
“Our country is honored to receive his holiness with Cuban patriotism, learning, vocation, solidarity and humanity,” read a front-page editorial published last week in Granma, the Cuban Communist Party daily newspaper, which on most days offers scathing critiques of life in the United States and glorified recountings of the Cuban revolution.
In the weeks leading up to the pope’s arrival, Cuban church leaders have been given greater freedom to speak publicly. Sites the pope will visit are undergoing hurried beautification. And in Havana’s Plaza de la Revolución, an altar is being built where the pope will deliver mass to crowds expected to be in the hundreds of thousands.
It’s a marked change from the last (and first) papal visit to Cuba. When Pope John Paul II visited in 1998, the stage was placed off to the side of the square, as if to marginalize his influence. (Some Cubans claimed the aging pontiff was placed in a shadier area as protection from the sun.)
For Pope Benedict, the altar stands in the center of the plaza, the same place where Fidel Castro delivered many of his most incendiary speeches at the height of the Cold War, a point remarked upon by many Havana residents.
Follow the CNN Belief Blog on Twitter
But is the leader of the global Catholic Church receiving more than just lip service from the secular and once officially atheist Cuban state?
The answer is, like nearly all things in Cuba, complex. During John Paul’s visit, he famously called on “Cuba to open to the world and the world to open to Cuba.”
And to some extent, some of those openings have taken place.
The church was considered a threat to the revolution in the days after he took power, Fidel Castro told theologian Frei Betto in the book “Fidel and Religion.”
The Catholic Church, Castro said, was “permeated by reactionary ideas, right wing ideas,” and populated by clergy who “tried to use the church as a weapon, an instrument, against the revolution.”
The church suffered greatly in the backlash, with most of the country’s priests leaving for exile. Religion was transformed into a topic to be discussed in whispers.
But life for Cuba’s Catholics changed with the collapse of the Soviet Union and the lead-up to John Paul’s visit. Christmas was reinstated as a holiday. Cuba went from being an officially atheist state to a secular one. Cubans were told by their leaders for the first time that they could be both openly religious and members of the Communist Party.
Now it is commonplace to see Cubans wear crucifixes and baptize their children. Church attendance, while still low, has rebounded.
But in spite of those advances, many here feel that John Paul’s call for greater openness has still not been realized.
“Perhaps the church can make a case that it’s looking at this whole thing long-term, by small incremental steps, maybe the church feels it’s moving the regime to a more open stance, more democratic reforms,” said Daniel Alvarez, a Religion Professor at Florida International University.
Outside Havana, a Catholic seminary opened just more than a year ago, the first building Cuba’s government has allowed the church to build since the revolution.
The seminary is home to 50 aspiring priests. They are the future of the Cuban church, says seminary rector Jose Miguel Gonzalez, and symbolize the strides the church has taken here.
“We have to keep progressing without fear, respectfully,” said Gonzalez. ”We have to do it despite few resources, the scarcity of priests, the few institutions we have. We don’t have any schools here, hospitals or means of mass communication.”
The church, Gonzalez said, is increasingly being sought out by once ardent supporters of the revolution.
“We have to open our doors to those people who lost their faith in a system,” he said. “An ideology and a humanism that turned out to be utopian and left them feeling cheated.”
But critics argue that the Catholic Church has more resources and power than any other nongovernmental organization in Cuba and that it uses them far too cautiously.
“In this visit the church, the pope have not made any overtures to the dissidents, a very vocal voice in Cuba,” Alvarez said. “The church has a lot of leverage and in the past has exercised it. What we are we wondering is will this pope take a step in that direction?”
Last week, 13 self-described dissidents occupied a Havana church for three days, refusing to leave until their demands to speak with the pope were met. After failing to negotiate the group’s exit, church leaders called in Cuban police, who removed the occupiers.
On Sunday, mre than 70 women who are members of “the Damas de Blanco” group were also detained before being released. The group – all women – hold weekly silent protests outside a Havana Catholic church asking for greater personal freedoms and the release of jailed family members.
While the state calls the women “mercenaries” in the employ of Washington, their protests usually do not lead to wide-scale police action.
The flurry of arrests were quickly criticized by Cuba’s dissident community and Cuban exiles, many of whom were already dissatisfied with the tone of the pope’s trip
“The church is not lifting a critical, prophetic voice against situations that the whole world sees as oppressive,” Alvarez said. “Why can’t the pope or the church insist there be more opening, more democratic reforms, more freedom for the people?”
It is not known how much the pope, a fierce critic of secularism, will press for greater religious freedom when he addresses the Cuban people and meets with President Raul Castro.
During that private meeting, church officials said, Raul Castro’s family has also been invited and officials anticipate that ex-President Fidel Castro may also be present.
If so, it may mark the first time a pope meets with a current and former leader of a communist state.
During a rare speech on Cuban-state television last week, Cardinal Jaime Ortega y Alamino said the pope’s visit is meant to address questions of faith, not politics.
“The pope is determined to revive the faith of Christian countries that need to be re-evangelized,” he said. “The reviving of a sleeping faith, the reviving of a somewhat erased faith but one that was still in the people’s hearts.”
Some of that resurgent faith has been on display in recent weeks, when the Cuban church was allowed by the government to perform the via cruxis, public re-enactments of Jesus Christ’s crucifixion.
As a cooling breeze blew in from the nearby seafront on Friday in the Havana suburb Alamar, a procession of the faithful carried a wooden Jesus Christ through a maze of crumbling, Soviet-built apartment buildings.
“I am so happy, overjoyed,” Alamar resident Delia Betancourt said. “I never thought my family and I would have the opportunity to see the pope twice in our life. It gives us and all of Cuba great hope.”
Addressing the small crowd that gathered for the evening ceremony, Ortega told them to arrive at Mass at Havana’s Plaza de la Revolución early and to wear a good hat to protect them from Cuba’s blazing sun.
The pope, he told the crowd, was traveling to Cuba to mend wounds from the past.
“He wants to be conciliatory pope,” Ortega told the crowd. “That’s to say a pope who unites people, who is capable of building bridges.”
But building bridges in Cuba, where old divisions still stretch wide, may be a fearsome challenge. Even for a pope.
Patrick Oppmann is CNN’s correspondent based in Havana. He also was in Cuba Pope John Paul II’s visit to the island. Follow Patrick on Twitter @CNN_Oppmann for updates on the Pope’s trip to Cuba.
Thanks for your advice on this blog. Just one thing I would choose to say is always that purchasing electronic devices items over the Internet is not new. In fact, in the past 10 years alone, the market for online electronics has grown drastically. Today, you will discover practically any type of electronic unit and gizmo on the Internet, which include cameras along with camcorders to computer elements and video games consoles.
I found this site by mistake, but wanted to read this post. I recommended it to a friend to check out. Cheers!
2045 The faithful will use their cmmoon sense when and if they are exposed to this hopeless translation, as happened in South Africa. But they will be muddled and mystified not only by confused people who claim that Vatican I and II teach that only the Pope is infallible and deny that Vatican II refers to the infallibility of the People of God, and who make every criticism of the liturgy a criticism of episcopal and papal authority on matters pertaining to divine Revelation but also by prelates like Cardinal Napier who will treat them as rebellious and tell them to shut up. Most people will wisely decide not to get involved in such a fight, since they have not the equipment for it, and have not the time to waste dismantling the mystifications. Many people will seek a meaningful liturgy in another Christian Church (or non-Catholic ecclesial community as the Vatican would put it).
Tom, thanks for the ptoprtunioy to explain. For context, I wrote after #113 the order seems to have gotten mixed up a bit. Fr. Ze28099s blog was referenced in #96: e2809cThere is some whining out there (mostly among liberals and aging-hippies) about the new translation we will start using by Advent 2011e280a6 whether the whiners like it or not.e2809d My reference to rosaries was just this: In my mind, people of faith will always seek and, thank God, find expression. Obedience to church teaching was expressed in 1960 by attendance at Mass. But, being there, praying the rosary was far more expressive of some peoplee28099s faith. Of course, I cane28099t really say what was in the ladiese28099 minds. But my Irish father was never without his rosary. But people havene28099t been saying rosaries during Mass for awhile.From very brilliant people here, I have learned that there is no clear consensus that this translation is going to be good for the English speaking people of God. It is becoming increasingly difficult for me to accept that people of good will are going to be told that, if they explain them well enough, they will be embraced by their fellow parishioners. If not, it wone28099t be because the translation is clumsy, it will be because our faith or our acceptance of authority is, somehow, lacking. I saw that reflected here. People who ask the hard questions, will become e2809cwhinerse2809d. Lacking the knowledge, background, and ability of Fr. Anthony, they will be quiet. I never thought it possible but, might faithful men and women praying the rosary during Mass reappear?27af
I WONDER HOW MANY MILLIONS DID THESE BRAIN DAMAGES GAVE TO THE SCAM ARTIST POPE
I wonder if the Hitler Youth Pope tried to get Castro to put the big studded candle in the rectory or if he had the alter boys do that as usual....did he try to put his host in his mouth too?
The pope knows he needs a BULLIT PROOF pope-mobile because he knows prayer is useless and god does not exist
When Christianity was a small beleaguered sect, the Romans called them atheists as they (Christians) did not believe in the gods of the prevailing power. Currently atheists just believe in one less god than the Christians. Nothing more. Yet, these "nonbelievers" live moral and ethical lives. Christians are no more moral or ethical than their atheist counterparts. Its just that atheists don't claim the piety that Christians believe is bestowed to them when they are "cleansed" of their sins. What is not good for children are myths. What is not good for other living things is believing that these living things are purely here for our use/benefit as opposed to co-existence. And such has been the history of mankind in the name of one's religion. As far as the visit of the Pope to my Cuban homeland, my question is: did he bring with him the cologne he commissioned for himself? Where is the piety in that?
Prayer changes things .
Lying is a sin, you've been proven a liar over and over again on this blog. A great example of prayer proven not to work is the Christians in jail because prayer didn't work. For example: Susan Grady, who relied on prayer to heal her son. Nine-year-old Aaron Grady died and Susan Grady was arrested Friday morning...
An article in the Journal of Pediatrics examined the deaths of 172 children from families who relied upon faith healing from 1975 to 1995. They concluded that four out of five ill children, who died under the care of faith healers or being left to prayer only, would most likely have survived if they had received medical care.
Plus don't forget. The statistical studies from the nineteenth century and the three CCU studies on prayer are quite consistent with the fact that humanity is wasting a huge amount of time on a procedure that simply doesn’t work. Nonetheless, faith in prayer is so pervasive and deeply rooted, you can be sure believers will continue to devise future studies in a desperate effort to confirm their beliefs.!
Okay ladies, lighten up.
The Catholic pope ("Rats" Ratzinger) was a Nazi, as everyone knows, in Hitler's army.
True – and it makes perfect sense since Hitler wrote that he was doing god's work by exterminating the jewish people.
so in your mind all nazis (many who by the way were forced to join the army) were evil? this shows how clever you are…
It's amazing how uniformed people are, they keep mixing Communism and atheism. Communism or Nazism is a delusional doctrine quite similar to religion. Atheism is not a belief system as such. It's not a dogma like any of the above. Actually, there are no atheists (the word "atheist" just means that the person doesn't believe in God specifically) – just rational people that reject delusional beliefs of any kind. Communists were atheists because it suited their dogma (religion and Communism are two very similar dogmas, and as such cannot and will not ever exist together as one competes with the other for the brainwashed minds of the people). That doesn't make atheists Communists. Nazis used Christianity to suit their dogma. That doesn't necessarily make all Christians Nazis (although many of them were and still are)!
The CNN Belief Blog covers the faith angles of the day's biggest stories, from breaking news to politics to entertainment, fostering a global conversation about the role of religion and belief in readers' lives. It's edited by CNN's Daniel Burke with contributions from Eric Marrapodi and CNN's worldwide news gathering team.